When exploring history, context is everything.
I had the opportunity to tour Laura Plantation yesterday. Invited by an associate, I must admit—I was hesitant. I’ve had two very different experiences at plantations in the past:
One, a well-established site, gave little to no attention to the history of enslavement. It left me cold.
The other, Whitney Plantation, profoundly changed me. It centers the lives and legacies of the enslaved. In my opinion, Whitney is essential for anyone visiting this region.
So, with that history, I reluctantly agreed to visit Laura.
I’m so glad I did.
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Laura challenged me to engage with the complex and often forced community that existed on that land. It never glamorized the "big house" or positioned its owners as heroic. Instead, it offered a direct and honest reckoning with their worldview, their actions, and the lasting consequences of both.
It was clear: proximity was not equality.
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Because this was a Creole household—not American—the narrative at Laura is uniquely detailed, drawing from French records that offer specificity often lost in American archives. This matriarchal structure allowed for a nuanced lens into the people, relationships, and power dynamics at play.
And Laura Plantation hasn’t rested on its laurels. Since 1994, they’ve continued to evolve their tour—now on version 20—refining their storytelling every time new evidence, context, or complexity is uncovered. They don’t shy away from contradictions. They honor the skilled labor and brilliant craftsmanship of the enslaved, while directly addressing the cruelty of capitalism and human suffering that built the plantation economy.
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Our tour guide, Joseph, was an absolute gem. Though he primarily gives tours in French, his English narration was precise, thoughtful, and unflinching. He didn’t just recite facts—he bridged historical narratives with compassion and challenged preconceived ideas with grace. It was one of the most skillful tours I’ve ever experienced, and I do not say that lightly.
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If you are committed to decolonization and anti-racism, I now believe Laura is essential—right alongside Whitney.
A day trip that includes:
A morning at Laura,
A reflective picnic on-site to process and decompress,
And an afternoon at Whitney—
…could fundamentally shift how you understand American history.
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If you visit New Orleans, know this:
Nearly every boutique hotel, every historic house, every storefront, every public park—they all have ties to enslavement. At Laura, they don’t run from that responsibility. They face it.
If you’re strong enough to look this history in the eye, you may begin to see yourself reflected in it. And beyond that reflection? There’s a path forward. But first, we must do the work.
The work is being done at Laura.
Now it’s up to me to do better.
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To visit Whitney and Laura, you’ll need a car or car service.
Do NOT use a ride share app—you may have difficulty getting picked up afterward.
✅ I recommend:
👉 NOLA VIP Car Service – reliable and respectful.
👉 Or, book a combo tour with a swamp tour. (Note: I don’t personally recommend combining the two—the energy and intention of swamp tours don’t align well with the gravity of Whitney and Laura—but the option exists and is offered by some companies.)
🔗 Whitney Plantation: https://whitneyplantation.org/
🔗 Laura Plantation: https://www.lauraplantation.com/
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If this sparked questions or reflection, I’d love to hear them.
To follow my ongoing journey as a tour guide here in New Orleans, find me on Instagram:
📸 @nawlins_crawlins